
I’m not quite sure what the official name for the style of these booties but to me they feel very moccasin inspired hence ‘baby mocs.’ Again here I’ve used chunkier wool and a larger hook which gives the booties structure (and they’re quicker to make this way too!!!)
The way I crochet baby booties is somewhat unconventional as I don’t start with an oval sole but a rectangular one. The main reason for this is the oval shape is in actual fact my arch nemesis in the crochet world. I have tried and tried, believe me, I really have but for some reason I just can’t consistently produce an oval in the length and width I need. Therefore the shoe is built up in the same way that you would make a crocheted box or container, by picking up stitches around the edge. It’s really simple once you get your head round it, I promise!
Hook size: 4.5mm/ size 7.
Yarn: I used Sirdar Tweed Chunky for the sole and a similar weight for the upper. You could use an aran wool or a slimmer chunky yarn (just not super chunky)
Abbreviations: Chain- ch; slip stitch- ss; double crochet- dc (US single crochet); treble crochet- tc (US double crochet); double crochet 2 together- dc2tog (US sc2tog).
NB: This pattern assumes that your chain st and consequent slip stitch at the end of the round accounts for one whole stitch, so when working the upper in the round I will put the total stitches per round inclusive of the ch/ss. This explains why the numbers of dcs either sides of the decrease at the toe are different.

Sole
Ch9. Join to 1st ch st with a ss.
Row 1: Work 1 dc in 2nd ch st from hook. Then make 1 dc in each st along the row until end. Turn. (8st)
Rows 2-10: Ch1. 1 dc in each st to end. Turn.
Row 11: Ch1. dc 3 st. Then dc2tog over next 2 stitches. dc to end. (7st)
Rows 12-15: Ch1. 1 dc in each st to end of row. Turn.
Row 16: Ch3. Working to your left, work 1 tc in each space created by the rows from the previous section. You will have 39 st in total. Join to 3rd chain with ss. Break off yarn and pull end through the loop to secure.
With new yarn, make circle: ch 5, join to 1st ch with a ss. Ch 3. Tc 13 into centre of circle. Join to 3rd ch st with a ss. (14 st) Break off yarn, pull end through loop to secure. Weave in ends.
Upper
Put hook through the middle stitch along the heel. There are 7 stitches along the back so it’s easy to spot the middle stitch. Now make a slip knot and put new yarn on hook, bring through to the front and now ch 1.
Row 1: Work 13 dcs, dc2tog, dc7, dc2tog, dc14. Join to ch st with a ss.
Row 2: Ch 1. dc 13, dc2tog, dc5, dc2tog, dc14. Join to ch st with a ss.
Row 3: Ch 1. dc 13, dc2tog, dc3, dc2tog, dc14. Join to ch st with a ss.
Row 4: Ch 1. dc 13, dc2tog, dc1, dc2tog, dc14. Join to ch st with a ss.
Row 5: Ch 1 dc 8, dc2tog, attach circle with slip stitches. Put hook first through upper, then through circle, catch yarn and bring through to create ss. This way will give a clean edge. Do this around 10 st of circle and front of shoe. Leave circle and continue to work around the edge of the upper. Dc2tog next 2 st. Dc 8 st. Join to ch st with a ss.
Row 6: Ch 1. Dc 8, dc2tog (2nd st you will dc2tog will be a ss made from last round), ss 4 across circle, dc2tog along upper (1st st will be a ss made from last round). Dc 7 st to end. Join to 1st ch st with ss.
FOR FLAT EDGE AT TOE
Row 7: Ch 1. Ss 10 to circle. Ss through top loop only across circle. Ss through both loops per stitch when back at the upper and ss round to end. Join to ch 1 with a ss.
FOR WAVY EDGE AT TOE
Row 7: Ch 1. Ss 9. Start wavy edge: *Ch 2, 1 htc in next st, ss next st*. Repeat from * to * two times. When working around the circle, ss through top loop only to give a nice edge to the circle. When back to the upper ss in the normal way. Ss 6 to end, join to ch 1 with ss.
Break off yarn, pull end through loop and secure. Weave in ends.