Tutorial: Crocheted T-bar shoes for tiny feet

This tutorial is for a pair of baby shoes that I designed and is aimed at a crochet beginner but who has had a bit of experience with the stitches and wants to try their hand at a meaty project. These shoes should be suitable for a baby 0-3 months.

Hook size: 9 (UK)/ 3.5 (Metric)/ E (US)

Wool: DK/ Worsted weight in two colours, one for the sole and one for the upper.

Abbreviations: Chain- ch; slip stitch- ss; double crochet- dc (US single crochet); treble crochet- tc (US double crochet); double crochet 2 together- dc2tog (US sc2tog).

The sole

Ch 10.

1 dc in 2nd ch from hook.

1 dc in each ch across row (9 stitches).

1 ch. Turn work. *1 dc in each st across row, ch 1, turn*.  Repeat * to * 7 times.

Next row: dc 3, dc2tog, dc 4, ch 1, turn.

Next row: *1 dc in each st across row, ch 1, turn*.  Repeat * to * 5 times.

Next row: dc 3, dc2tog, dc 3, ch 1, turn. (7 stitches).

Next row: dc 3, dc2tog, dc2, ch1, turn. (6 st).

Next row: dc2tog, dc2tog, dc2tog. Draw yarn through final loop.

The upper

Round 1: add main colour to bottom right corner of sole by inserting an empty hook through the stitch space, place slip stitch with main colour onto hook and bring through holebring back through and ch 1.

1 dc in each space formed from the dc rows of the sole to corner.

At corner: 3 dc into stitch space. Continue to 1 dc in each st space and 3 dc at each corner until back to start. Ss to chain (where new colour was inserted).

Round 2: ch 2.

*1 tc in each st space created by the dc from previous round.

At the corner: 1 tc, ss next st, 1 tc.*

Continue from * to * until end of round. Ss into 3rd ch to join.

Round 3: ch 1. *1 dc into each stitch space created by the tc from previous round.

At the corners: 1 dc, skip ss from previous round, 1 dc*.

Continue from * to * until end of round. Ss into 1 ch to join.

Round 4: ch 1. *1 dc into each stitch space created by the dc from previous round.

At the corners: there are now 2 stitches at each corner, dc2tog*.

Continue from * to * until end of round. Ss into 1 ch to join.

Round 5: ss into every stitich created by the dc in the previous round. This provides a strong edge to the shoe.

Shape front

Row 1: Ss round to 3rd stitch from the toe corner nearest to the start of the row. Ch 1.  The number of stitches you have at the toe will determine how many you need to now dc. You need to dc around to the 3rd st past the furthest toe corner. For example, I had 3 stitches at the toe and with 3 either side equals 9 stitches.

Ch1, turn work.

Row 2: dc back to start of shape toe (for me was 9 st). Turn work.

Row 3: Skip the 1st st from your hook, ss next 2 stitches. Dc 3,ch 1, turn.

Row 4: *skip 1st st from hook, dc across row in the st space created by the dc in the previous row. Ch 1, turn work.*

Repeat from * to * 4 times to create the vertical section to the ‘T’ bar.

Next: ss down side of the vertical section of the ‘T’ bar and along the side of the shoe to the 6th st past the corner.

Shape strap

At the 6th st past the corner 1 dc into the next 3 slip stitches from the previous round. Ch 1, turn.

Working the same as for the vertical section of the ‘T’ bar, *skip 1st st from hook, dc across row in the st space created by the dc in the previous row. Ch 1, turn work.*

Repeat from * to * 10 times.

Attach strap to opposite side with a ss through the each of the dcs and slip stitches forming the edging on the opposite side.

Ss down the side of the strap along 3 stitches.

Join the horizontal bar to the vertical bar with ss through each of the top 3 dcs.

Ss along the remaining edge of the strap.

Draw yarn through loop, secure loose ends and weave in.

Turn shoe inside out to the right side and press.

And repeat to make a pair!